The South West Coast Path is the longest National Trail in England, running for 630 miles from Minehead in Somerset around to Poole Harbour in Dorset. Of all the miles you could walk, the stretch that passes directly below the lodges at Whitsand Bay Fort is one of the most rewarding. Cliff edges, hidden coves, Iron Age remains, a medieval chapel, free roaming ponies and views that reach as far as the Eddystone Lighthouse on a clear day.
Lodge owners and visitors here have something rare. You can step out of your front door, cross the lane, and join the path within a minute. No drive to a trailhead. No car park to find. Just open countryside, sea air, and a route that has been walked for centuries.
Below are three routes for different abilities and time slots, each starting from the Fort. Pick one based on how the legs are feeling.
Easy
Polhawn Cove and back
A short out and back along the clifftop towards Polhawn Cove. Mostly level, with one descent to the cove and back up. Ideal for an after dinner stroll.
Moderate
Rame Head and the Chapel
The classic walk from the Fort. East along the cliffs to Rame Head, up the steps to St Michael's Chapel for views back across Whitsand Bay, then return the same way.
Challenging
To Portwrinkle (one way)
The full Rame Head to Portwrinkle stretch, west along Whitsand Bay's full four miles. Multiple ascents and descents. Bus or pre-arranged lift back from Portwrinkle.
Heading east to Rame Head
If you only walk one section of coast path during your visit, this is the one. Turn left out of the Fort onto the path and you'll find yourself climbing gently along the cliff edge, with Whitsand Bay opening out below you and Rame Head's distinctive pointed shape ahead.
The walk takes you across open heathland that is grazed by wild ponies. Stonechats and skylarks fill the air in spring and summer. After about a mile and a half you'll reach the National Coastwatch Institution lookout station, where the path crosses a small wooden footbridge before climbing the steps to the headland chapel.
St Michael's Chapel sits 320 feet above sea level on the spot where, in 1588, the first sighting of the Spanish Armada was reported. The chapel itself was licensed for mass in 1397 and once held a lamp that warned passing ships of the rocks below.
What you'll see along the way
- Free roaming ponies grazing on the headland common
- The remains of an Iron Age rampart across the neck of the headland
- The 14th century chapel and the views from its summit
- The Eddystone Lighthouse offshore on a clear day
- Stonechats, skylarks and (in summer) painted lady butterflies
Heading west to Portwrinkle
Turn right out of the park and you join the path heading west along the top of Whitsand Bay. This is the longer, more demanding direction, but also the one that puts the famous four miles of golden sand below you for the entire walk.
You'll pass above Tregonhawke, Freathy and Sharrow Point, with the curious cluster of clifftop cabins that local walkers always remark on. Some are little more than garden sheds, others are substantial single storey homes, all dating back generations and all clinging to the cliff face on tiny plots.
Portwrinkle itself is a small village with two grey sand beaches, a sheltered harbour, and a pub for a well earned lunch. From there, the path continues to Looe and beyond, but most walkers turn back here or catch a bus.
Planning your walk
When to go
The path is open year round. Spring brings primroses and bluebells along the verges, and the wild ponies have foals on the headland. Summer is the busiest period and the warmest, though the breeze off the sea keeps it pleasant. Autumn is arguably the most rewarding season for walkers, with golden light, fewer people, and the cliffs at their most dramatic. Winter brings storms, spectacular wave action and the chance to have a long stretch of path entirely to yourself.
What to take
- Sturdy walking shoes or boots, even in summer
- A waterproof jacket, regardless of the forecast
- Water and a snack for the longer routes
- An OS Explorer 108 map for the Rame Head to Portwrinkle section
- A camera, phone or sketchbook for the views from the chapel
Getting back
The short and moderate routes are out and back, so getting back is simply a matter of turning around. For the Portwrinkle stretch, there are local buses that connect Portwrinkle to Crafthole and Polbathic, with onward connections to the Rame area. Many lodge owners simply phone a friend for a lift.
Frequently asked questions
Why this stretch is special
Cornwall has plenty of beautiful coastline. What sets the path around Whitsand Bay apart is how unspoilt it remains. There are no busy resorts, no commercial seafronts, no chains. Just farmland running down to the cliff edge, the National Trust managing the headland, and a community of local walkers who know every inch of it.
This is the same stretch of coastline that featured in the 2025 film adaptation of The Salt Path, with Rame Head appearing prominently. You can read about the film's South West locations in our companion guide.
For lodge owners at Whitsand Bay Fort, this isn't a holiday walk to do once. It's a daily option. Different light, different tide, different season, different walk every time.
Ready to explore? View available lodges or book a park tour to see the path firsthand.
